Haute Couture (High-End or Avant-Garde Fashion) is a French phenomenon in the Fashion world and is at the heart of the FHCM (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode). For decades, Haute Couture collections have been presented twice a year, in January for Spring-Summer and July for Autumn-Winter. The 2020 Pandemic, however, affected everything, including fashion week schedules. But after two years of small-scale shows, virtual presentations, and digital drops, the awe-inspiring Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week is back to its roots with its 2022 edition.

The arrival of big brands and official members of FHCM, among Schiaparelli and Jean Paul Gaultier, also brought many foreign and guest members or designers back to Couture Week, with fashionistas from all over the world flocking to the French capital for the event this year. In addition to the exceptional craftsmanship and exquisite gowns, the make-up and accessories have evolved and become increasingly outrageous.

Eight trendiest Designers and their most eye-catching looks from the Paris Haute Couture AW’22.

Today, I have narrowed down my favorite designers from the Paris Fashion Week with look reviews. Just in time for the new season, check them out!

SCHIAPARELLI

The glamorous Couture collection by Daniel Roseberry captured hearts with a surreal aesthetic designed for the red carpet. Roseberry’s “Born Again” show was an ode to creative innocence, optimism, and pure joy in fashion. The silhouettes included unexpected details, astonishing levels of artistry, rigorous tailoring, and references to founder Elsa Schiaparelli while classical, Disney-like music enhanced the dramatic atmosphere of the runway. Roseberry’s fusion of velvets, silks, feathers, corsetry, and heavy gold embellishments took the viewers through the brand’s archives with a distinctly modern touch.

IRIS VAN HERPEN

The artistic vision of Iris Van Herpen has forged a new path in Haute Couture. She draws inspiration from dance, choreography, science, architecture, music, and new technology to create sublime designs. This season she explored the Metaverse, calling the collection “MetaMorphism.”
It premiered in Paris at the Élysée Montmartre, where artists like David Bowie and Patti Smith have performed in the past. Through redefining the old-world charm of couture, the Dutch designer explored the changes and adaptations that will result from the rise of the metaverse, showing how fashion will change with technology. Despite being a futurist, Van Herpen drew inspiration from the Roman poet Ovid’s Metamorphoses, in which myths and the history of the world intersect.
Overall, the intricately crafted pieces, including 3D-printed panels and innovative sustainable materials used throughout the collection, were stunning. For example, the opening look featured a biodegradable fabric made from banana leaf mixed with raw silk and draped like a Grecian Goddess. Then, Cindy Bruna, the French model, wore a chocolate brown jumpsuit made from 3D printed fiber derived from cocoa bean shells, paired with upcycled organza. As Van Herpen’s brand celebrated its 15th anniversary during this fashion week, the fashionistas looked forward to its future. Do you see her as a counterpart to the late Thierry Mugler?

YUIMA NAKAZATO HAUTE COUTURE

In a world of scrolling doom, Yuima Nakazato sought solace in sketching, sculpting fabric, and shaping clay into his handmade ceramic jewelry featured on the runway. For his 12th collection, he presented an otherworldly display inspired by patches of blue sky between the buildings outside his Tokyo workshop. “Blue,” the dominant color of the earth, was the predominant hue of his ethereal collection. It depicted shamanic beings reminiscent of the Na’vi from James Cameron’s “Avatar.” Nakazato refashioned deadstock fabrics into living sculptures. He used traditional kimono fabrication which he bases his designs on to avoid waste. For example, some pieces featured off-white shamanic robes fastened together with his proprietary Type-1 productions. It is a sewing-free assembly system, allowing garments to attach using snap-like attachments called dots.

In other patterns, the rectangular kimono took on a new life with a delicate touch and vivid imagination. Nakazato used his innovative bio-smocking technique, which allows him to control the shrinkage rate of fiber to make lasting “creases and pleats” on a sustainable protein-based biomaterial from Japanese producer Spiber. He also used traditional indigo dyeing, Shibori tie-dyeing, and lacquering techniques. In addition to the supernatural theme, the Japanese designer turned a blown-up sketch into crumpled iceberg-like sculptures. And it covered the walls and floor of the Palais de Tokyo venue in Paris. He designed the runway set to be recycled after the show, tapping into the brand’s sustainability mission. And Ryuichi Sakamoto and Senjan Jansen composed a trance-like soundtrack punctuated by coastal bird cries for the event.

FRANCK SORBIER HAUTE COUTURE

The French couture designer Franck Sorbier loves dreamy and poetic worlds. For A/W 2022, he found inspiration from Saltimbanques and street performers from another era. He created couture with intricate embroidery and black lace cut-outs recomposed and applied over red backgrounds sourced from the archives of Maison Worth.

“Les Saltimbanques” was presented as a parade called “acrobats” at the central courtyard of the National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts in Paris. It was indeed a spectacular act and performance. A cotton candy vendor, a crying hurdy-gurdy, a saxophonist perched on a ladder, a man riding a big bike, a horse stuntman Mario Luraschi whose clogs rattled across the cobbled yard, a columbine, rival bands in a fight set the ambiance perfectly. The oversized black wrinkled velvet coat with a large tree of life motif. It was entirely embroidered with exotic birds and insects, and was by far the highlight!!

ELIE SAAB HAUTE COUTURE

Like the vibrant motion of dusk, Elie Saab Haute Couture A/W 2022 created an atmosphere of fantasy and mystery. “The Beginning of Twilight,” as the collection name entitled, illustrated the impression of a disappearing sun in every imperial piece. For a brief instant, ethereal hues, opulent textures, and graceful lines captured the subtle transition between day and night. In most of these awe-inspiring silhouettes, the setting sun symbolizes its power and grace. Then, there are the voluminous jackets intricately woven with silk threads and embellished with mirrored gems. The show was indeed captivating. In a moment where everything seems familiar but surprisingly is not, the collection exhibits a brilliant allure that draws the eye, like a gentle flow of light into the dark that provides breath for the enchanted. The collection features a mixed bag of looks with a little tribal groove thrown in.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Olivier Rousteing, the guest designer of the brand, presented an open letter of love for Jean Paul Gaultier in this latest collection. As Rousteing opened his show with menswear, he drew inspiration from Gaultier’s “Les Taouages,” the 1994 tattoo Spring Collection, which he regarded as a celebration of diversity.

Then, Rousteing moved into women’s fashion, focusing on Gaultier’s themes of corsetry, repurposed denim, and Breton fishermen’s sweaters. Most of the looks displayed balancing on platform heels inspired by the famous tin cans. From the playful collage looks that greeted the audience to the angelic winged garments that closed it, Rousteing’s Jean Paul Gaultier collection was a fun, inspiring interpretation of the classic label.

STÉPHANE ROLLAND

The couturier Stéphane Rolland delivered an elegant collection inspired by the celebrated French singer Barbara. On the catwalk, asymmetrical dresses of impressive volumes coexisted with sleek outfits that looked as simple as black velvet jumpsuits. For example, it featured a long sheath dress in black jersey with a “maxi-chain” and black crystal embroidery, jumpsuits in silk velvet, asymmetrical sweaters in alligator, and an embroidered patent leather tunic. Africa was also an inspiration for part of her collection. For example, the designer created several outfits with “Masai” embroidery and “Scarification” fabric effects. It included a stunning long tunic dress in white wool gazar with silver silicon “Masai” embroidery. Also, a poncho top in ebony chiffon embroidered with scarifications in brown jersey and crystal, and a bustle dress embroidered with a tattoo on black gauze.

MAISON MARGIELA

Maison Margiela is no stranger to cinematography, and the 2022 version of the Haute Couture ignites the “Cinema Inferno.” With the house’s last two collections showcased through short films, Creative Director John Galiano chose to use the same format for this season. UK Theater Company Imitating the Dog presented the movie in front of a live audience in Paris. The film revolved around two lovers and combined Western and horror elements to create an action-packed thriller with evil family members.

The colorful, eye-catching ensembles of the characters lent themselves to the fast-paced world of the film, adorned with sparkly red purses and prop guns. There were long coats and “broad-brimmed hats” on the Cowboys and a voluminous pink gown on the villain. With tulle, sequins, and latex caps, Galliano played with texture in true Maison Margiela style. The garments were colorful, with shades of mint green, hot pink, and royal blue. Besides, a diverse range of garments demonstrated Galliano’s imagination and creativity, ranging from long dresses to rugged coats. And yet again, John Galliano’s eye for film and couture was evident in the Maison Margiela Artisanal Couture Autumn-Winter 2022 Collection.